The structure of American cities is completely different, but if there was one thing I’d wish after this trip, it would be having kiosks selling “simit” for breakfast. It’s cheap, it’s everywhere, and it gives you a boost of energy. Though “burek” is fried, I could say the same thing about it. These two cheap foods were my favorite go-to breakfast options. Simply hit the street and purchase them on the spot within seconds.
I did not try the traditional Turkish breakfast of bread, cheese, and vegetables, as it was too close to the traditional Iranian breakfast that I grew up with. However, another breakfast I tried was “muhlama”, an extremely rich and delicious cream, which my guide/friend and myself guessed to be the cream of wheat. When I researched muhlama for this post, a chill went down my spine. It is a combination of aged cheeses and cornmeal melted in the butter and comes from the Black Sea region of turkey (i.e., from Istanbul towards the east, and is also eaten in Georgia and Azerbaijan). While I was not following my typically strict and very healthy diet rules on my trip, I probably would’ve stayed with simit had I known the amount of butter and cheese melted in muhlama.
You could stay in Istanbul for days simply eating different kinds of kebabs. Just like you could try various kinds of fish from the Bosphorus for days on an end. My time in Istanbul was limited but I tried a few of these items. Iskender kebap is served in a hot dish covered with small pieces of bread with yogurt on the side and tomatoes on top. While it is certainly a delicious food, it did not live up to the expectations that recommendations from numerous friends had created.
On the other hand, a gentleman practicing his English with me at the Grand Bazaar recommended a less famous “Kilis Kebab”, which was likely one of the best things I had ever tried. The food consists of ground lamb meat with pepper, onion, and garlic, on a bed made of a thin layer of potatoes. The last goal of this blog is to advertise for restaurants, but it will be a shame if I do not recommend that you look for “Ali Usta” restaurant while in the Grand Bazaar. I could link to it but you will not be able to find a physical address in the Grand Bazaar. Simply ask and as the gentleman who told me about it, “In the corner by the door. You won’t miss it.”
Your list is always incomplete if you talk about Turkish food and exclude Raki, but three more items before I get there:
First, as seafood is concerned, Istanbul is rich in different types of fish. I tried grilled Mezgit, which was heavenly when coupled with the live music at the little restaurant, but the Bosphorus provides different depths and temperatures to support a variety of fish.
Secondly, my reaction when I tried “Izgaralar” was so visceral, which made my friend laugh hard at the table. There is a reason that the Turks use a complicated word to describe it instead of “meatball”. It’s complicated, rich, and tasty. Don’t be fooled by the “meatball” translation on the menus.
Lastly, one of my most beautiful childhood memories with my father was to eat skewers of cow liver grilled on coal barbecues at small stands. Turkey similarly has its “ciger kebabi” and if the liver is your thing, I’d recommend it.
And Raki … The national drink of Turkey. It is a drink made from anise, which is served with water. The chemical reaction that turns Raki into a white liquid after the water is added is by itself part of the fun. You can add as much water as you’d like to bake it stronger or weaker to match your taste but that will clearly dilute the taste of Raki. I was not crazy about the taste but as no Turkish story has ever concluded without Raki involved, I highly recommend it as part of the cultural experience.
It sure feels like a long post about food but I just realized I did not even scratch the surface. There are at least 20 types of kebab and fish that I have read about and haven’t tried. Istanbul is gastronomical heaven and I don’t mind another opportunity to be back and try the rest of them. Just another excuse to visit Istanbul.