Istanbul 5 – the Grand Bazaar, the Islands, and the People

Merchants moved to the area currently known as the Grand Bazaar after the Conquest of Constantinople. In other words, the Grand Bazaar has been active for 650 years. It is not the oldest Bazaar in the world (Tehran Grand Bazaar, for example, dates back to the 7th century), but it is fully covered and hosts over 90 million people every year. The whole idea of a Bazaar is a fascinating concept. Why would I open a shop next to multiple identical shops, constantly watch to increase my standards to excel the other shops, and cut down my profit margin substantially to win business? That’s because the answer was never about the competition but the customer.  Merchants always saw value in bringing the customer to one central location before worrying about competition. In that alone, there are numerous lessons for those of us who dabble in business. 

I have, on occasion, asked people if I can take their portraits, and one of the best reactions ever was from the cloth-selling gentleman in Istanbul Bazaar. He was surprised about the offer and so happy with the outcome, in spite of the mask. I took another portrait of a gentleman selling herbal tea and sweets, and if time allowed and I was not a nuisance to people’s businesses, I would have likely taken more. If there’s one place to take portraits, it is the Bazaar. Also before I move on, I should give an honorable mention to the fresh pomegranate juice I had at the Bazaar. 

In his beautiful autobiographical book, Istanbul, Orhan Pamuk talks about old Istanbul and its wooden houses, particularly the “yalis” by the Bosphorus. As one of the biggest signs of going from the old to modern Istanbul, he talks about people’s bliss in the 50s, 60s, and 70s, when the old houses burned down one by one. In one of Turkey’s poorest times, this destruction was welcome as a sign of moving to new ages. Regardless, visiting “Adalar”, the nine islands in the Sea of Marmara, which are mostly car-free and full of wooden houses, provides some historical context and shows you what the old Istanbul looked like. The island I visited was Buyukada, which was the largest of the nine. The views were breathtaking and the houses beautiful, with some currently in ruins, but it certainly gave me an idea of old Istanbul. Pamuk does explain that these were initially Greek fishing villages whose populations were displaced in the 19th century. There are also beautiful views of the Sea of Marmara.

I must say a few words about the beautiful people of Istanbul before I move on. Istanbul is a truly international city. Millions moved to the United States throughout history, particularly between 1880 and 1914, and made a huge melting pot. As an immigrant myself, I appreciate this history. Similar events have happened in Canada, Australia, New Zealand, and in short, the new world. However, the feeling that one gets from Istanbul is entirely different. Never in the United States have I seen signs in four different languages. I’m not talking about a single store in a secluded place, there are entire neighborhoods that with signs in multiple languages. Istanbul still enjoys being the connection between Europe and Asia. She understands that she has to host many who settle there in need of a better life as well as millions who just pass by. People have adjusted to this life as well. They are kind, and while some speak English, the majority help in any language they can. They all warmly greeted me and for that I’m thankful. Hopefully, it will not be another 33 years before the next visit.